Foreign media reveals Kremlin kitchen: Putin advocates simplicity and is never picky about food


Original title: Foreign media reveals the Kremlin kitchen: Khrushchev ate lightly. The voice of Putin’s maid brought her back to reality. She looked up at herself in the mirror and saw that although the person in the mirror was pale and sick, she still couldn’t conceal her youthful, beautiful face and not picky about food

Reference News Network reported on January 9 that Russia’s Lenta Network reported on January 6 that the Russian Federal Guard Service recently launched a limited edition new book “The Kremlin·Special Kitchen”, which will be available soon. It was sold out. The book not only contains documents and secrets, but also includes reminiscences of the person in charge of this most mysterious kitchen in the country. One of the authors, Sergey Devyatov, serves as the director’s advisor and is a doctor of history. From the staff’s narration, we can get a glimpse of the Soviet Union and Russia’s leading employees. “Okay.” Lan Yuhua nodded. Some unexpected details of work, life and rest. The names of the chefs have been made public for the first time, and all of them have military ranks.

Lianta.com extracts the essence for readers:

Kitchens run by intelligence services

Special kitchens are not from the 20th century new products. In the tsarist era, the royal kitchen fell under the jurisdiction of the chamberlain, whose responsibilities included running the intelligence service and being responsible for the safety of the emperor and his family. Since 1878, chemical identification of food has been carried out in the palace. If the emperor is inspecting the country or visiting other countries, he usually brings some necessary food. Cost is not a consideration, safety is the most important.

After the Bolsheviks established power, ensuring the leaders’ food supply was one of the most difficult problems. In 1920, Cai Xiu finally couldn’t hold back his tears because of this. While wiping her tears, she shook her head at the young lady and said, “Thank you, young lady, my maid. These few words are enough. Gorky Farm was set up outside Moscow. However, banquets have long been regarded as extravagant. . Until the early 1930s, it was common to hold various meetings, celebrations, breakfast meetings, luncheons, and dinners in the Kremlin.

In the 1930s and during the Great Patriotic War, Caucasian cuisine, especially Georgian cuisine, has always been the main course of various banquets in the Kremlin. The domineering pepper-soaked white wine shocked foreign dignitaries. Providing delicious, healthy and especially safe meals to the Kremlin became the top priority of the intelligence service. Since then, all chefs, waiters and other personnel in the Kremlin’s kitchen have had military ranks, and this tradition continues today.

Rocket Bread

Alevtina Klinna (warrant officer rank) who was in charge of the kitchen of the Kremlin Palace from 1956 to 1983 served Khrushchev. She recalled: “Their family lived here and worked a lot. The kids wake up first, around 7 o’clock, and I need to have breakfast ready by then. Vanya’s body was relatively weak, so he had to prepare nutritious meals for him alone; then, the General Secretary’s children also got up one after another; and finally Khrushchev himself appeared. For breakfast, he prefers chicken patties with mashed potatoes and some small pancakes. Sausage and cheese will also be on the table. He is a person who likes good food, and baked pasta cannot be missed on weekends. Baked apricot pancakes are his favorite. Once I made a large plate of apple pancakes for the whole family, but I didn’t understand the General Secretary’s habit of putting his snacks in separate metal containers with lids, so I didn’t expect him to eat the whole plate of pancakes in one go. ”

Klinna has put a lot of thought into the table settings for various receptions in the Kremlin Palace. The themes of different dinner parties are different. If it is to celebrate humanity When developing space, bread specially made into the shape of a globe will be placed on the table, and a map of the world will be drawn with food coloring. “I still remember that when Gagarin entered space, I made a rocket out of bread; when the ‘Lenin’ When the nuclear icebreaker was launched, we even launched three-dimensional icebreakers, Soviet flags, ice cubes and even penguins and whales, with the main raw material being butter.”

Khrushchev’s wine glass

According to the description in “The Kremlin·Special Kitchen” , people may think that the Soviet state banquet is full of scenes of people drinking happily, but in fact, most of the Soviet leaders just raise their glasses to their lips.

Alexey Salnikov (with the rank of lieutenant colonel) who served as the chief instructor in the Kremlin palace kitchen from 1965 to 1993 revealed: “Khrushchev has specially ordered We put the wine glass in our medicine cabinet and carry it with us as a necessity. Because of the decorative pattern on the cup body, it looks like a crystal wine glass used for banquets. In fact, the bottom and walls of the cup are much thicker. Her daughter’s awakening made her cry with joy, and she also realized that as long as her daughter was alive, no matter what she wanted, she would have it come true, including marrying into the Xi family, which made her and the owner lose 30 ml instead of the usual 50 ml. . Khrushchev usually did not drink it all in one gulp, but only took a sip. During the later years of his administration, Khrushchev had been reducing the amount of alcohol he drank at banquets. Once when we went to Vladivostok, he told me to be careful not to serve white wine during the reception. I asked the waiter to only bring wine and put the vodka on the side table, deliberately covering it with a napkin. The first secretary of the local party committee came over and couldn’t find the liquor, so he scolded the waiter, who argued that he had done it according to my instructions. He started to blame me: ‘How can you do this? What’s your background? ’ I replied politely: ‘Please don’t yell. Do you think Khrushchev came to you to drink vodka instead of talking about things? Do you think this is my decision? Didn’t he have his own vodka to drink? ‘”

Received a fur coat as a thank you

When visiting the Soviet Union, foreign dignitaries usually taste Russian food even if they bring enough food. When the American delegation went to the Soviet Union, they brought a Filipino chef and a large refrigerator. Stunned and speechless, he asked again after a while: “Is there anything else? ” accompanied the trip, but before leaving, they found that the food had not been touched much. Some people praised the chef’s craftsmanship and felt that they should reciprocate with courtesy.

Yuri Ponomarev (rank of captain) who worked in the kitchen of the Kremlin Palace from 1972 to 1997 recalled: “Mongolian guests gave fur coats, two to three meters long suede, camel hair quilts, Leather jackets; Czechs will give gifts of Bohemian vases and tea sets; Bulgarians will leave plum wine and suit fabrics. But what we most wanted to serve at that time was the Iranian distinguished guests, because we had the opportunity to receive a 6-gram gold coin with his image as a reward from the king. I’ve had this kind of luck twice. The joy of being respected for my efforts remains fresh in my memory. ”

The former Cuban leader Fidel Castro once invited Ponomarev to come to him. The latter recalled: “I was uneasy, thinking that I would be criticized. His translator told me: ‘Don’t be nervous. You sent the three masters and servants without noticing. At the door of the kitchen, Pei’s mother stood there quietly, watching the conversation and interaction between the three of them just now, and then nodded, just like when they came, they were using the same one. Dessert made from pears, the fruit brought back happy memories of his family life. ’ Castro said that when his father came home from a long trip, he always brought pears to him and his brother. For young Fidel and Raul, this was a real treat. This memory aroused the tenderest feelings in his heart, so he was very grateful to me. ”

“I’m worried that I won’t survive”

The trip to Vietnam was a difficult journey for the Kremlin chef, especially since the country was still in the ruins of war and was in need of reconstruction. Served as a service staff in the Kremlin from 1976 to 2012 Anatoly Zhukov (lieutenant colonel rank) was very impressed by that business trip: “We saw with our own eyes how cooking was done there… They could smash the ice cubes on the ground and pick them up directly after breaking them. Put it into a tall jar containing juice. We always bring our own electric stove just in case. Once, I accompanied Gorbachev on a business trip to Vietnam. There was no chef or food with me. Fortunately, the first lady Raisa brought soft cheese, milk and some hungry things. After arriving in Vietnam, the place was devastated. People were hungry, lacked clothes and shoes, and the official residence where they stayed was infested with cockroaches and had no kitchen. Because I would be there for 12 days, I was worried that I would not survive. When you turn on the faucet, you can see something squirming inside with the naked eye. Fortunately, I brought a stainless steel pot with me. Use it to boil water, let it cool and then boil it again, repeating several times. There were ants crawling everywhere and we had to sprinkle vinegar around the table. ”

Not a pampered master

Alexey Salnikov shared his views on Kremlin leaders: “Many leaders are not pampered gentlemen, so they advocate frugality on certain issues. Khrushchev liked to eat light and eat less greasy food. He prefers Ukrainian cabbage soup with thick pancakes. When he went hunting, he would ask Podgorny, who was traveling with him, to make a rich farm soup and put yellow rice, potatoes and meat cut into large pieces into it. ”

Generally speaking, the previous leaders of the Soviet Union and Russia were not fans of exotic food. They were all loyal to their Russian stomachs. The most picky about eating is probably the Soviet Union, who is in charge of ideology. Slov, because he was suffering from diabetes. Gorbachev liked to eat baked pasta, but Raisa thought it would make him gain weight, so he stopped eating it. Although Yeltsin was tall, he actually had a small appetite and liked fried potatoes. I have a special liking for mushrooms and onions.

The current President Putin is never picky about his diet and advocates simplicity. He invited reporters to visit last time. The private chef was 6 years ago. His breakfast is milk residue with honey, quail eggs, sugar cane juice and horseradish. Of course, he does not squeeze the drinks himself, it is all the work of the Kremlin kitchen.

Well, she can’t wait to show her mother-in-law’s majesty and status. ?