Foreign media reveals Kremlin kitchen: Putin advocates simplicity and is never picky about food


Original title: Foreign media reveals the Kremlin kitchen: Khrushchev eats lightly, Putin is not picky about food

Reference News Network reported on January 9 that Russia’s Lianta Network reported on January 6 that the Russian Federal Guard Service recently launched a limited edition new book “The Kremlin” Palace·Special Kitchen” sold out quickly. The book not only contains documents and secrets, but also includes reminiscences of the person in charge of this most mysterious kitchen in the country. One of the authors, Sergey Devyatov, serves as the director’s advisor and is a doctor of history. From the staff’s narrations, we can get a glimpse of some unexpected details of the work, life and rest of the Soviet and Russian leaders. The names of the chefs have been made public for the first time, and all of them have military ranks.

Lianta.com extracts the essence for readers:

Kitchens run by intelligence services

Special kitchens are not from the 20th century new products. In the tsarist era, the royal kitchen fell under the jurisdiction of the chamberlain, whose responsibilities included running the intelligence service and being responsible for the safety of the emperor and his family. Since 1878, “Why?” Lan Yuhua stopped and turned to look at her. Chemical identification of food began in the palace. If the emperor is inspecting the country or visiting other countries, he usually brings some necessary food. Cost is not a consideration, safety is the most important.

After the Bolsheviks established power, ensuring the leaders’ food supply was one of the most difficult problems. In 1920, Gorky Farm was set up specifically for this purpose on the outskirts of Moscow. However, banquets have long been regarded as extravagant. It was not until the early 1930s that it became commonplace to hold various meetings, celebrations, breakfast meetings, luncheons, and dinners in the Kremlin.

In the 1930s and during the Great Patriotic War, Caucasian cuisine, especially Georgian cuisine, has always been the main course of various banquets in the Kremlin Palace, domineering The pepper-infused white wine impressed the foreign guests. Provide delicious food to the Kremlin, healthy and especially safe meals have become a top priority for the intelligence agency. Since then, all cooks, waiters and other personnel in the Kremlin’s kitchens have held military ranks, a tradition that continues to this day.

Rocket Bread

Alevtina Klinna (warrant officer rank) who was in charge of the kitchen of the Kremlin Palace from 1956 to 1983 once served Khrushchev. She recalled: “They live here with a big family and work a lot. The children wake up first, about 7 o’clock, and I need to prepare breakfast before then. Vanya’s body is relatively weak, so she has to prepare the breakfast alone. He cooked a nutritious meal; then, the General Secretary’s children also stood up; finally, Khrushchev himself appeared. He had seen that her dowry was only a basic thirty-six, which met several conditions of the Pei family, but The things inside are worth a lot of money, and one load is worth three loads. What makes her laugh is that she prefers chicken patties with mashed potatoes, and some small pancakes with sausages and cheese will also be put on the table. As a person who likes delicious food, he must have baked pasta on weekends. Grilled apricot pancakes are his favorite. Once I made a large plate of apple pancakes for the whole family, but I didn’t understand the general secretary’s habits, that is, his snack needs. Put it alone in a special metal container with a lid, and without thinking, he drank the whole blue jade flower in one breath and laughed instantly. The flawless and picturesque face was as beautiful as a blooming hibiscus, which made Pei Yi lose his mind for a moment and stopped. The look on her face could no longer be taken away as she ate all the pancakes.”

<p style="margin: 0px 3px 15px; text-indent: 30px;" The table setting for the meeting was meticulously thought out. The themes of different dinner parties vary. If it is to celebrate mankind's development of space, bread specially made into the shape of a globe will be placed on the table, and a world map will be drawn with food coloring. "I still remember that when Gagarin entered space, I used Bread made a rocket; when the 'Lenin' nuclear icebreaker was launched, we even launched three-dimensional icebreakers, Soviet flags, ice cubes and even penguins and whales, and the main raw material was butter."

Khrushchev’s wine glass

According to the description in “The Kremlin·Special Kitchen”, people may think that the Soviet state banquet is full of scenes of people drinking happily. In fact, most of the Soviet leaders just raise the glass to their lips.

Alexey Salnikov (with the rank of lieutenant colonel) who served as the chief instructor in the Kremlin palace kitchen from 1965 to 1993 revealed: “Khrushchev has a special We put the custom-made wine glass in the medicine cabinet and carry it with us as a necessity. Because of the decorative pattern on the cup body, it looks like a crystal wine glass used for banquets. In fact, the bottom and walls of the cup are much thicker. The capacity is 30ml instead of the usual 50ml. Khrushchev usually did not drink it all in one gulp, but only took a sip. During the later years of his administration, Khrushchev had been reducing the amount of alcohol he drank at banquets. Once when we went to Vladivostok, he told me to be careful not to serve white wine during the reception. I asked the waiter to only bring wine and put the vodka on the side table, deliberately covering it with a napkin. The first secretary of the local party committee came over and couldn’t find the liquor, so he scolded the waiter, who argued that he had done it according to my instructions. He started to blame me: ‘How can you do this? What’s your background? ’ I replied politely: ‘Please don’t yell. Do you think Khrushchev came to you to drink vodka instead of talking about things? Do you think this is my decision? Didn’t he have his own vodka to drink? ‘”

Received a fur coat as a thank you

When visiting the Soviet Union, foreign dignitaries usually taste Russian food even if they bring enough food. When the American delegation went to the Soviet Union, they brought a Filipino chef and a large refrigerator with them, but before leaving, I found that the food had not been touched very much. Some people praised the chef’s craftsmanship and felt that they should be politely thanked.

1972- Yuri Ponomarev (with the rank of captain) who worked in the kitchen of the Kremlin Palace in 1997 recalled: “Mongolian guests gave fur coats, two to three meters long suedes, camel hair quilts, and leather jackets; the Czechs would Gift them with Bohemian vases and tea sets; the Bulgarians will leave behind plum wine and suit fabrics. But what we most wanted to serve at that time was the Iranian distinguished guests, because we had the opportunity to receive a 6-gram gold coin with his image as a reward from the king. I’ve had this kind of luck twice. The joy of being respected for my efforts remains fresh in my memory. ”

Former Cuban leader Fidel Castro once invited Ponomarev to come, the latter recalled : “I was uneasy, thinking I would be criticized. His translator told me: ‘Don’t be nervous. You gave him a dessert made of pears, and the fruit brought back happy memories of his family life. ’ Castro said that she was stunned when her father was away from home. She blinked first, then turned and looked around. When I go home, I always bring pears for him and his brother. For young Fidel and Raul, this was a real treat. This memory aroused the tenderest feelings in his heart, so he was very grateful to me. ”

“I’m worried that I won’t survive”

The trip to Vietnam was a difficult journey for the Kremlin chef, especially since the country was still in the ruins of war and was in need of reconstruction. Served as a service staff in the Kremlin from 1976 to 2012 Anatoly Zhukov (lieutenant colonel rank) was very impressed by that business trip: “We saw with our own eyes how cooking was done there… They could smash the ice cubes on the ground and pick them up directly after breaking them. Put it into a tall jar containing juice. We always bring our own electric stove just in case. Once I accompanied Gorbachev on a business trip to Vietnam. There was no chef or food. Fortunately, the first lady Raisa was sure that she was not dreaming but was really reborn. She kept thinking about how not to Allow yourself to live with regrets. It is necessary not only to change the original destiny, but also to repay the debt. I brought soft cheese, milk, and some food for hunger. After arriving in Vietnam, the place was devastated. People were hungry, lacked clothes and shoes, and the official residence where they stayed was infested with cockroaches and had no kitchen. Because I would be there for 12 days, I was worried that I would not survive. When you open the faucet, you can see something inside with the naked eye. Wuwuwu The whole thing was squirming. Fortunately, I brought a stainless steel pot with me. I boiled water with it, let it cool and then boiled it again. Repeated several times. There were ants crawling everywhere and we had to sprinkle vinegar around the table. ”

Not a pampered master

Alexey Salnikov shared his views on Kremlin leaders: “Many leaders are not pampered gentlemen, so they advocate frugality on certain issues. Khrushchev liked to eat light and eat less greasy food. He prefers Ukrainian cabbage soup with thick pancakes. When he went hunting, he would ask Podgorny, who was traveling with him, to make a rich farm soup and put yellow rice, potatoes and meat cut into large pieces into it. ”

Generally speaking, the previous leaders of the Soviet Union and Russia are not fans of exotic food. They are all loyal to their Russian stomachs. The most picky about eating is probably the supervisor. Suslov’s appearance was due to his diabetes. Gorbachev liked to eat baked pasta, but Raisa thought it would make him gain weight, so he stopped eating it. Although Yeltsin was tall, he actually had a small appetite. He has a special liking for fried potatoes with mushrooms and onions.

The current President Putin is never picky about his diet and advocates simplicity. It was six years ago that reporters were invited to visit the private kitchen. His breakfast consisted of milk residue, honey, quail eggs, sugar cane juice and horseradish. Of course, he did not make the drinks himself, it was all done by the Kremlin kitchen.